Overton Hill to Streatley (Iron Age Forts to the Thames)

After months of careful planning it was now time for 4 members of The Ivel Valley Walkers Rambling Group to set off on their summer 2011 expedition.

The plan was to walk The Ridgeway, one of the oldest routes in the country, from Overton Hill in Wiltshire to Ivinghoe Beacon in Buckinghamshire a total distance of 87 miles in five and a half days.

The journey to the start at Overton Hill was to be made by car, the day started bright and clear, but heavy rain was forecasted. Leaving Bedfordshire at 9.00'ish we drove cross country to Ogbourne St George, our stop for the first night, to drop off our bags. The forecast was right and by this stage it was raining heavily, after a couple of tours of the village and a phone call or two we eventually found our B&B, the bags were duly dropped off and we were on our way again.

As is the want with British weather by the time arrived at Overton Hill, a lay-by on the A4 near West Kennet, the sky had cleared and the sun shone

Day-1 (Overton Hill to Ogbourne St George)

Starting The Ridgeway (only 87 miles to go)

The first afternoons walk was to be a gentle warm up of 9 miles, climbing up out of the valley before turning across the Marlborough Downs and down into Ogbourne St George. The lay-by was occupied by new-age travellers gathering for the summer solstice, with them looking on we gathered up our belongings, posed for a few photos and started on up the hill and onto The Ridgeway. The travellers soon petered out and we were on our way. The path continued steadily upwards, passing a herd of friendly cows, on our left we could just make out the stones at Avebury in the valley below.

Getting acquainted with the local cows

On top of Barbury Castle

After a couple of miles of steady climb, we reached the top of Hackpen Hill, where we decided to take a break and stop for lunch. Feeling fully refreshed it was time start again crossing a minor road we could just make the white horse on the slope below. At this stage we were now overlooking the Marlborough Downs and heading for Barbury Castle. Cresting the next rise we could now see the impressive earthworks of the castle ahead, the bad news was that  the path now dropped in a valley before climbing steeply up to the top of the mound. After all that excursion it was time for a rest, the signs all pointed to "The Ridgeway Farm Cafe" being just the other side of the castle, however when we got there all we could find was a burnt out shell. Never mind after a quick drink we walked on to Smeathie's Ridge a long expanse of open grassland partly gallops and partly sheep grazing with spectacular views on either side.

Smeathie's Ridge

The path continued along the ridge for just over a mile before dropping down off the hill and heading towards Ogbourne St George our stop for the night. As it was still early we decided to take afternoon tea and cake on the slope below the ridge. We had remained dry until this point, but just as we finished the heavens opened for a brief squally shower. From a grassy track the path now became a chalky bridleway as we slid our way down to the village.

Ogbourne St George our stop for
Day-1

Upon reaching the road we turned right round the outskirts of the village and down a further bridleway before we finally crossed the fields and headed for our B&B and a chance to rest our weary feet.


Lavender House B&B was extremely comfortable and welcoming, the bags were already upstairs so this decided who had the bunk beds. After a rest it was down to the "Inn on the Well" for the first of a few beers and a delicious evening's meal (and yes there is a well in the middle of the pub).


Our introduction day was now finished and it was on to day-2.


Day-2 (Ogbourne St George to Sparsholt Firs)


The second days walk was 14 miles of ridge walking and iron age remnants.

Next stop Liddington Castle

The climb back up to the ridge was long and steep in places, once at the top the path opened out in front of us. The sun was shining and it looked like a beautiful day ahead.


The route heading northwards to Liddington castle was a gentle undulating hedge lined by-way through the hedges you catch glimpses of the beautiful Wiltshire countryside.

Swindon and the M4

Once at the top of Liddington Hill the iron age fort appears on your left, with the M4 and Swindon straight ahead the path turns right and heads down to cross the motorway.  

Time for a break

After taking a break we headed down the hill, the path follows the road over the motorway and onto Foxhills. When we there the Moto-XP motor cross was on. The noise was riotous as we passed the track and turned up Whitehorse Hill. The peace and silence was soon restored.

The village of Ashbury

Passing Charlbury Hill mound we continued on towards our lunch stop at Ashbury a pretty little village about a mile off the Ridgeway. 

Waylands Smithy

Shortly after rejoining the path we entered Waylands Smithy, a neolithic long barrow. The site was already occupied by groups of people gathering to the following days summer solstice.



Uffingham Castle

 The wind was getting up as we climbed up to Uffingham Castle and the famous White Horse below. We sheltered in one ditches round the site for our tea break.

Down Barn Farm our stop
on day 2

After the fort our next task for B&B for the night. The path at this stage wanders downhill towards the village of Sparsholt. Our B&B for the night was at Down Barn Farm just off the track, the horse centre and organic farm looked lovely from the outside, appearances can be deceptive. Dinner was at the farm as the nearest pub is about 2 miles away, on second thoughts the extra 4 miles walk may well of been worth it.


Day-3 (Sparsholt Firs to Goring)


Day-3 looked like a toughish 18 mile walk across the chalk downs to the Thames Valley according to the map. But after a small detour it turned out to be possibly the toughest day of the walk, 21 miles of solid chalk (hard on the feet) with a over-planned detour in the middle.





Day 3 Sparsholt Firs to Streatley

The day started bright and sunny, we awoke to a breakfast of organic bacon and sausages with blue bread and dodgy cereal. Never mind that's the experiences of walking. The pattern was now set firstly pack our bags and leave them for the baggage taxi (every night they were there before us), next it was on with the boots and off we go back to ridge. 

Once back on the ridge it was back up the next hill, this one had the added advantage of a water tap at the top. We were leaving the Iron Age forts behind today and were moving onto natural marvels and monuments.

The Devils Punchbowl
at Sparsholt Firs

 The first of these on our list was the Devils Punchbowl, about 2 miles in, the natural bowl in the chalk downs was slightly obscured by crops but did give us an insight into the marvels of nature. As we climbed the hill beyond the view became slightly clearer. We could now see the poppies planted in a pattern at the base of the bowl.

Once back at the top it was onto the final fort of Segsbury Castle its mound obscured by hedges but it was still an impressive sight.

Didcot Power Station
in the distance

Our next task was slightly more modern, crossing the A338, before this we came across two dog walkers, one with what looked like a 4 wheel drive motorised wheel chair, both inventive and practical. After a quick morning's break it was on across the road and back into the countryside. The path at this stage was a wide track with views ahead over the Oxfordshire countryside, in the distance was the unmistakable sight of Didcot Power Station which was to accompany us for the majority of the rest of our journey.

Lord Wantage Monument

The next landmark on our walk came shortly after with the memorial to Lord Wantage left in his honour by his beloved wife. It is situated high above the town of Wantage from which he took his name. After taking a break here the walk took us along the wide track towards our lunch stop.

The plan was to take a detour from the track down following the gallops to the small village of West Ilsley. One slight problem soon transpired the pub was closed that afternoon for a funeral. What to do now ???

 

Resting for lunch at The Swan

 The decision was made to walk to the next pub 3 miles down the road to the next village of East Ilsley. an hour later we were happily resting in the garden of The Swan enjoying a well earned pint or two.

After a well earned rest it was now time to find our way back to the path. After careful debate we took the shortest route possible back up to East Ilsley Down. You could tell this was horse racing country gallops were dotted all around this part of the walk. The sky was darkening and rain looked imminent, the forecast was for rain, as we followed the ever undulating path across the Oxfordshire Downs.

The Red Kite
circled overhead

We were lucky the rain held off for most of the afternoon continuing on till about 4 o'clock we decided it was time for tea and cake. The afternoon sun was shining and a red kite was circling overhead.

The Halfway Point

We were now at about halfway along The Ridgeway and on our final stretch down to the River Thames and our resting point for the day.

It was shortly after our luck run out and the skies opened there was a mad dash for our waterproofs, but Dave was there with his trusty brolly. The last 2 (or maybe 3 miles) were damp and appeared never ending as we trudged down into Streatley and across The Thames to Goring in search of our B&B.

We'd landed on our feet again this the accommodation was immaculate and the garden a labour of love. After a brief rest and a well earned cup of tea it was back to the centre of Goring (about a mile away) to top up the liquid intake and for a delicious well earned meal at The Miller of Mansfield.


To hear about the rest of trip move on to page 2 (Streatley to Ivinghoe Beacon - up into The Chilterns)